travelsbas.blogg.se - Edge blending coat buffing

EDGE BLENDING COAT BUFFING FREE

The first and basic thing to understand about foam is whether it is open or closed cell. Since there are so many ways to measure foam, we are going to start here with the basic. PPI is a generic way of distinguishing foam, but not the 100% correct way. There are many ways to identify foam pads in the industry. There are many new technological advances in the foam pad industry and I am writing this to help give you more information so you are able to choose the correct foam for your next job. Foam pads work allot differently than wool pads as far as cut, feel and performance. We all know glaze is a temporary fix and will wash off.īuffing and polishing your car with foam pads has been around for many years.

Avoid putting too much into the paint, in other words damaging it then covering swirl with an oily hand glaze.

This can include steam cleaning the motor, random orbital glazing the exterior and freshening up the interior. Extra added tip: many body shops are now practicing good delivery points by quick detailing the car.

EDGE BLENDING COAT BUFFING FREE

You can have the best body work in the world but your customer will be most impressed by a swirl free finish.

A properly buffed and finished painted panel can sell the job.

Allowing grit and particles to suspend on the paint can damage it.

Use plenty of water when color sanding.

Experiment with the right combination of sandpaper, buffing pads and overall timing of the buff.

Stronger paper may cut faster it’s also harder to rub out.

Use sandpaper that will meet the minimum to get the job done.

You buff fresh paint to soon, dye back.

You wait too long, your work is now work!

Plan your color sanding and buffing at the moment paint is ready don't wait until the paint is harder than a rock.

Color sanding is common at the body shop level, therefore proper prep, buffing techniques, pad selection, timing the buff are very relevant factors.

Very important to keep buffing pads clean and not cross contaminate pads.

Stay within recommended RPMs when buffing car.

Keep electrical tools away from standing water.

Use a spur to clean your buffing pads, not sharp objects like screwdrivers, etc.

Five gallon buckets and cheap step ladders can tip or slide on slick pavement, especially when there's a lot of tire dressing on the ground.

Use approved implements for elevating yourself.

Work close but not over unless you have a good touch. If you are a beginner, don’t lock the variable trigger, this will allow you to slow down at any time.

Avoid edges by masking or working parallel with the buffer wheel.

Avoid or mask rubberized body side moldings, you can burn or stain them.

Have you ever seen a windshield wiper fly? The cautious approach is the best approach, mask or remove where possible. Watch for pad grabbers like antennas, windshield wipers and emblems.Work the car from right to left (right handed) and don't turn the buffer upside down, the cord will get wrapped in the buffer spindle if you do.You will get a feel for how the buffer wants to move in time. Keep the buffer in motion to avoid burning the paint. Let the weight of the buffer do most of the work.With increased practice, proficiency increases. Working smaller areas, keep your pace uniform and in "rhythm". Start slightly on edge and then finish flat. Proper buffing techniques are a must. In short, work buffer right to left over bead of polish and/or compound.There are several kinds available on the market. This will minimize or remove protrusions on the paint surface such as railhead particles and environmental contaminates. Give the car a good wash and prep the surface with a clay preparation bar. Paint preparation is vital. Proper paint preparation makes the process smoother with a better end result.Refer to Buffing Techniques for related information on reducing swirl.A final hand or orbital wax will clean up any polish residue. Leave a little material on the car, because without it, you create friction. When finishing with a polish or glaze, don't buff dry. After using compound wash the treated area with soap and water to eliminate excess compound grit.Try to stay between 1750-2400 RPM when compounding and between 1200-1750 RPM when finishing. Lower RPMs means less friction, less friction means less heat buildup.We have many pad compositions, experiment with the least aggressive and work up to the most aggressive, if needed. Utilize this same principle when selecting the right compound or polish. Match the right buffing pad to the right polishing material. We know not all paint surfaces are the same, save time by spot buffing a small area then check results.Keep compound pads separate from polishing and finishing pads.

Cross contamination is another leading cause of swirl.Soak foam pads in warm water and ring dry. Never put in dryer.

Spur wool pads frequently, wash and air dry occasionally.

Minimize swirl by maintaining clean buffing pads.